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The Wine Spectator
The Ojai Vineyard
Excelling with an unlikely Ventura winery
James Laube
Posted: March 18, 2003
Helen and Adam Tolmach have found success with their Roll Ranch wines.
When winemakers talk about tough places to grow grapes, they usually refer to challenging soil or climatic conditions. Roll Ranch, in Southern California's Ventura County, is another story altogether.
The enemy there is grapevine-killing Pierce's disease, caused by a bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa, and spread by a trio of insects: green, blue-green and glassy-winged sharpshooters. The fact that sharpshooters thrive in this mild coastal climate almost ensures that grapevines won't -- and makes Roll Ranch quite unusual. Adam Tolmach, 47, owner of Ojai Vineyard, knows firsthand.
The vineyard that Tolmach and his wife, Helen, planted in Ojai in the late 1980s was destroyed by Pierce's disease and removed in the early 1990s. Since then, the Tolmachs have purchased all the grapes for their 6,000-case winery, mostly from Santa Barbara County growers. But they have had the good fortune to buy Roll Ranch grapes, which since 1995 have produced premier California Syrahs; the Ojai Syrah Roll Ranch Vineyard 2000 (93 points, $45) is a deep, rich, opulent wine that was one of the best wines in its category from the 2000 vintage.
That Roll Ranch even exists is testimony to its unique microclimate. It is located in a warmer, drier area of the valley, 700 feet above Ojai, on a plateau of nutrient-deficient soils. It sits below the area's defining geographic presence, the TopaTopa Mountains, which reach about 6,700 feet. Moreover, while the vineyard shows evidence of Pierce's disease, Roll Ranch is healthy enough to routinely produce delicious wines. The sharpshooters have been kept at bay by a combination of the vineyard's isolation and its dry microclimate.
The owners of Roll Ranch -- Richard and Suzanne Roll -- planted 5 acres of Syrah and 2 acres of Viognier out of affection for Guigal Côte-Rôtie, says Tolmach. Richard is a finance professor at UCLA, and Suzanne is the owner-chef of Suzanne's, a restaurant in Ojai that she runs with their daughter.
Roll Ranch's ascent is due to precision farming and naturally low yields, says Tolmach. Roll Ranch is by far the warmest site that he buys grapes from, and it produces the ripest of the eight different Syrahs that he makes. Wines that come from Roll Ranch grapes age well too; the 1995 (93 points) is still plush and vibrant, with lots of complexity.
Most of Ojai's grapes come from cooler sites in Santa Barbara County's Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valleys. Wines from vineyards such as Thompson and Stolpman (Santa Ynez) and Bien Nacido (Santa Maria) are tighter and more austere, with firmer tannins. The Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard 2000 (88, $38) shows off layers of blueberry and boysenberry, with exotic spice and cigar box nuances. This late ripening vineyard typically produces ink dark wines. The Stolpman Vineyard 2000 (87, $38) is more tannic and earthier, but still rich in berry and tar flavors.
Other goodies include the Ojai Syrah Roll Ranch Special Bottling Lot E.H. 1998 (92, $65), which is thick and concentrated. The Vin du Soleil 1999 (90, $28), which is 85 percent Grenache, gushes with spicy plum and blackberry fruit, while the Santa Barbara County 2000 (87, $24), a blend of all the vineyards, is a solid value with its range of dark fruit flavors. Tolmach also makes a brilliant Pinot Noir; the Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard 2000 (93, $50) features rich, silky fruit.
2000 Syrah Roll Ranch:
Score: 93
Release Price: $45
Country: California
Region: Other California
Issue: Feb 28, 2003Top 100: 2003, Rank: 96
Designation: Highly Recommended
Simply delicious, overflowing with flavor. Inky dark, ripe, rich and plush, with a load of jammy plum, blackberry, wild berry and spicy aromatics. Finishes with a long, complex aftertaste and a gush of fruit. Tannins are well-integrated. Drink now through 2010. 600 cases made. –
James Laube
Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard 2006
Score: 93
Release Price: $45
Country: California
Region: Other California
Issue: Aug 31, 2009
Rich, intense and concentrated, with grapey currant, wild berry and blackberry fruit that's focused, pure and shaded by mineral and spice. Ends with a long, persistent finish. Drink now through 2016. 500 cases made. –JLViognier Dessert Wine California Roll Ranch 2008
Score: 92
Release Price: $30/375ml
Country: California
Region: Other California
Issue: Web Only - 2010
This intriguing white is extremely rich and graceful, with dried apricot notes that glide into lemon meringue, crème brûlée and vanilla bean pudding, finishing with a kiss of acidity that brightens up the long, lingering notes. Drink now through 2013. 270 cases made. –MWList of all the Wine Spectator scores since 1991:
Ojai Viognier California Roll Ranch 2008 92 $30/375ml
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Solomon Hills Vineyard ..........2007 87 $44
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard .....2007 87 $44
Ojai Viognier California Roll Ranch 2006 88 $30/375ml
Ojai Chardonnay Special Bottling Solomon Hills Vineyard .......... 2006 ......87 $50/375ml
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County 2006 87 $27
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard . 2006 93 $45
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Fe Ciega Vineyard ...2006 92 $56
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ....2006 87 $44
Ojai Syrah Sta. Rita Hills Melville Vineyards ...2006 91 $44
Ojai Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard .......2005 87 $40
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County .. 2005 86 $24
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard ..........2005 82 $30
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Solomon Hills ...... 2005 90 $45
Ojai Grenache Santa Barbara County ..2005 88 $35
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard .....2005 86 $56
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Fe Ciega Vineyard ....2005 87 $56
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Presidio Vineyard ........2005 91 $50
Ojai Syrah Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard .......2005 90 $38
Ojai Rosé California 2004 79 $14
Ojai Sauvignon Blanc Santa Barbara County Westerly Vineyard ..............2004 86 $24
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Solomon Hills .......2004 92 $45
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ....... 2004 92 $56
Ojai Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Fe Ciega Vineyard .... 2004 92 $56
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard ..2004 90 $45
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Fe Ciega 2004 89 $56
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County White Hawk Vineyard ..........2004 92 $38
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Thompson Vineyard ..........2004 88 $45
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County 2003 91 $27
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard .............2003 89 $27
Ojai Grenache Purisima Mountain Vineyard ........2003 88 $NA
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ......... 2003 92 $38
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Thompson Vineyard ..........2003 91 $56
Ojai Syrah Santa Rita Hills Melville Vineyards ......2003 90 $45
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Verna's Vineyard .........2003 85 $35
Ojai Vin du Soleil White Santa Barbara County .......2002 85 $21
Ojai Syrah Santa Rita Hills Melville Vineyards .......2002 93 $65
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ........... 2002 90 $38
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ........2002 88 $56
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Stolpman Vineyard ........... 2002 88 $45
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ............2001 91 $45
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard .... 2001 87 $45
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County . 2001 85 $24
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Talley-Rincon Vineyard ...............2001 86 $27
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ........ 2001 92 $45
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard .......... 2001 91 $56
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard .......... 2000 93 $50
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard .... 2000 93 $45
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard .......... 2000 88 $38
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Talley-Rincon Vineyard ...............2000 88 $30
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County 2000 87 $24
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Stolpman Vineyard ..........2000 87 $38
Ojai Syrah Santa Rita Hills Melville Vineyards .... 2000 90 $40
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Ynez Valley Clos Pepe Vineyard ........ 2000 85 $25
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ..... 2000 88 $38
Ojai Syrah California Bien Nacido-Roll Ranch .. 2000 92 $56
Ojai Vin du Soleil Red California . 2000 84 ...... $28
Ojai Vin du Soleil Red California . 1999 90 ....... $28
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyards . 1998 89 $38
Ojai Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard ..... 1998 87 $35
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard ........1998 84 $65
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Special Bottling Lot E.H. ...... 1998 92 $65
Ojai Viognier California Roll Ranch Vineyard .. .1997 85 $21
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Talley Vineyard .........1997 88 $20
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ..........1997 86 $25
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ............1996 87 $20
Ojai Viognier California Roll Ranch Vineyard .... 1996 83 $20
Ojai Syrah California 1996 88 $18
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ........ . 1996 86 $27
Ojai Syrah California Roll Ranch Vineyard ....1996 89 $23
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ......... 1996 87 $28
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Stolpman Vineyard .......... 1996 87 $23
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni Vineyard .........1996 88 $45
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley ... 1995 89 $16
Ojai Syrah California . 1995 89 $13
Ojai Syrah Santa Barbara County Bien Nacido Vineyard ......... 1995 91 $32
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Reserve 1995 85 $28
Ojai Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Benjamin Lorenzo 1995 91 $36
Ojai Syrah California 1994 88 $15
Ojai Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County 1993 86 $25
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Reserve 1993 87 $21
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 1993 86 $18
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 1992 88 $15
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Reserve 1992 88 $21
Ojai Chardonnay Santa Barbara County Reserve 1992 86 $21
Ojai Syrah California 1992 84 $15
Ojai Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley Reserve 1991 89 $21
Ojai Syrah California 1991 87 $15
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